It is rare that I read a guide book before a holiday. Paris seemed like a guarantee of grand edifices, a dash of Art Nouveau and plenty of galleries and cafés that I could stumble on without even trying. Fortunately for me, although slightly less so for my girlfriend, I picked up the guide and a few days later we were in the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine and she could watch my grinning face gleefully dashing around the museum from the comfort of the nearest bench.
The museum has two very distinct identities, both of which are simply delightful (and I don’t say that lightly). The ground floor is an airy and substantial collection of full size casts from the medieval buildings of France (naturally dominated by monastic and ecclesiastical carvings). The collection is a fantastic opportunity to see carving that would normally be out of reach and out of sight. Coupled with a generous helping of architectural models and drawings the floor feels like a private tour of a long forgotten medieval Europe. I dare you not to find it fascinating and surprising in equal measure.
When you tire of this, the upstairs collection provides a stark contrast. Dedicated largely to inter and post war architecture, the space is full of pleasing models, contemporary books and magazines and a full size replica section of Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse (Marseille). Snatch a view of the Eiffel Tower from the window then head into Corbusier’s vision of the future.
The original aims of the collection, to compare French medieval carvings with those of other countries, has sadly not been pursued which is perhaps a victim of the rather small size of the space that houses the collection. All in all this museum is absolutely worth a visit. Free with a Paris Museum card it provides enviable views of the Eiffel Tower whilst you absorb yourself in France’s far wider architectural history than just a temporary metal tower.
Address: 1 place du Trocadero et du 11 Novembre, Palais de Chaillot, 75016 (5 mins walk from Eiffel Tower – the walk to the museum offers some insta-worthy photo opportunities on the way as an added bonus).
Rubble & Brick 